Mosi-oa-tyna

"The Smoke that Thunders" - Victoria Falls


Livingstone, Zambia. Well I thought I would never curse paved roads, especially after the dirt road to Mansa. However, the great north road to Livingstone left me saying, "What is so great about it?" During the latter half of the six-hour drive here we were either swallowed in dust from a detour (zero visibility at times) or we were dodging potholes in the asphalt that would have damaged the land cruiser. No sampling on this trip down, and no stopping at the roadside stores (although we don't really see any).


We arrive in Livingstone and get to camp on the lawn of Jolly Boys Backpacker lodge. A crazy place to find in Africa, it is crawling with Aussie and European 20 somethings on vacation. They lounge around the pool (yes pool) and in various areas with chairs and cushions. It is like being on vacation in a fraternity house. In the afternoon we arrive at the falls and are too late to see the water, as the staff wants to go home on time. They will not let us into the park even though it is open. We proceed to the vendors that line the road to the falls (about twenty stalls). They all promise to give us "closing discount", "Sunday discount", or "50% off price, I promise you". We all try our hand at bargaining with these guys who are a shrewd as an Arab camel trader.

On day two here we go to see Victoria Falls, however due to dry season low water it is only flowing at the southern end. Still very impressive, but in the wet it is a curtain of water that flows over a quarter mile cliff face. We still get some great pictures complete with a morning rainbow in the mists and some group pictures walking around the falls. Also now we can say we have been to the Falls. We pick up a couple of live Coelatura spp. while walking above the falls and put them on ethanol.

Later today we are going to return for a "sundowner" at the falls and finish everyone's shopping list for people at home. Tomorrow we resume sampling on the Kafue River and hopefully our success with hold out again. This will be our first major sampling on the Zambezi River (other than the few from above the falls). After that we will again be in Lusaka for a day and then I am heading home.